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looks to snatch back its glory in Beijing
The games have been ferocious, with residents emerging using their small concrete homes round the court to watch. At one game,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], a stoic-looking grandmother in her own pajamas pulls up a chair. Moms get ready with babies in slings. Packs of grade-schoolers peer via a low wrought-iron fence. Motorbikes and cars ease into the surrounding yards, spilling out new fans.
Me,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], I keep striking the ratty shuttlecock to the roof. I tell another players,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], "This racket you gave me is missing a few strings."
Still, I've shoes on plus they don't. I get relegated to the front, through the net, to mop up the other team's drop shots and mis-hits. But thanks to my partner's overhead smash - the shot we picnic badmintoners in the West have yet to learn - we prevail over another neighborhood ruffians. Twice.
"Why shall we be playing badminton?" I ask.
"Thomas Cup,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]," my partner says.
The planet team championships have just finished in Jakarta, with Indonesia bowing in the semifinals of the men's competition and the finals from the women's. The Chinese took home both golds. Everyone here accumulates a shuttlecock after the worlds: It's like Americans swarming the driving range following the Masters.
The following month, Indonesia will be sending 11 shuttlers - half of its Olympic delegation to Beijing - to snatch back some glory. Badminton, after all,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], is Indonesia's sport. No country is much more decorated from world competitions since The second world war (after which it Indonesia sent the Dutch colonists packing, but kept the ecu import of badminton). And despite being 230 million strong,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Indonesia is feeble in almost every other sport.
The overall game is cheap,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], playable anytime,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], anywhere, at any speed, by anyone. Net and footwear is optional. And that is helped bulutangkis, as Indonesians call badminton,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], to seep in to the dense, warrenlike neighborhoods that everybody in the archipelago calls home.
So Indonesia awaits the Beijing Olympics, with bated breath and lightweight racket in hand. Tono's best young children chase birdies over the rubber floor. Part of a network in excess of 30 clubs nationwide that feed talent towards the national team, Jaya Raya youngsters exercise for seven hours daily, up to six days per week.
And they start young. Ten-year-old Lilyana plops down in a chair next to Tono. She started exercising here using a sawed-off racket at 5. Captured, she won the singles and doubles competitions for her age bracket in the international Singapore Open.
"My dream is the Olympics," she says. A picture of her idol, Mia Aulina, a Jaya Raya alum and Olympic silver medalist, hangs behind her on the wall of fame that stretches to Indonesia's greatest legend, Rudy Hartono.
The area drips with history - and sweat. The lack of ac has made Indonesian athletes tougher, says Tono, and it has wilted the great European players who come to challenge Jaya Raya's best. While I mop my brow,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], youngsters walk by and clasp Tono's hand to their foreheads.
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