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Bangladesh's deadly leather industry,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]
Workers pay high price at Bangladesh export tanneries.
STANDING barefoot in toxic chromium effluent at a tannery in Dhaka's Hazaribag district, 23-year-old leather worker Sumon fears his job is sending him to an early grave.
Ten years of inhaling fumes from the chemicals accustomed to turn Bangladeshi raw hide into soft leather for shoes to be removed in the western world has given Sumon,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], who started working in the tannery at 13, a shallow cough and stabbing chest pains.
"I don't like the job but I have no choice, I need the cash," said Sumon, who uses just one name, because he pulled freshly tanned skins out of huge barrels of blue-grey chromium liquid, which is used to process raw hide.
Cow and goat skins, caked in salt or still bloody from the slaughterhouse, are stacked in piles within the tannery, but Sumon said the stench from the raw hides may be the least of his problems.
Home: When a pleasant, semi-rural district in the Bangladeshi capital, Hazaribag has become a wasteland of toxic swamps, garbage landfills and mountains of decomposing leather scraps, surrounded by slums where tannery workers live.
"When When i first started,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the chemical fumes helped me so sick I could not eat for two months,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], now I can't even smell them," he said. "We get no training,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], no safety equipment. Workers have to learn how to be careful using the chemicals. I had a few accidents at first," he added, pointing to large, burn-like scars on his forearms and shins.
In Hazaribag district,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], home to countless tanneries such as the Salma Leather Co-operation where Sumon works,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the environmental and public health costs of the rapid growth of global interest in cheap shoes are on full display.
The area, once a pleasant, semi-rural district within the Bangladeshi capital, has become a wasteland of toxic swamps, garbage landfills and mountains of decomposing leather scraps, encompassed by slums where tannery workers live.
Piles of smouldering trash line banks of the nearby Buriganga, that is classified like a "dead" river after it hits Hazaribag as pollution in the tanneries has made it impossible for just about any fish or plantlife to outlive.
Every single day, the tanneries collectively dump 22,000 litres of toxic waste, including cancer-causing chromium, in to the Buriganga - Dhaka's main river and a key water supply - based on Bangladesh's secretary of state for environment.
A lot more than 90% of tannery workers suffer from some kind of disease - from asthma to cancer - due to chemical exposure, based on a 2008 survey by SEHD, a local charity,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], with local residents being almost as badly affected.
Despite their shocking environmental and work safety records, clients are booming in Hazaribag, as growing global demand for footwear along with rising manufacturing costs in China prompt Western buyers to show to Bangladesh.
Leather is the country's fastest growing export,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and Hazaribag's tanneries produced the majority of the 32 billion taka (US$460mil or RM1.42bil)) price of leather shipped last year, mostly to Europe, Russia, China and japan.
Workers in tanneries inhale fumes from the chemicals used to turn raw hide into soft leather for shoes to be removed in the West. A lot more than 90% of tannery workers are afflicted by some type of disease, from asthma to cancer, because of chemical exposure.
Leather exports were also up 45% from July to November 2010, with shoe shipments to American markets alone up 50% within the same period,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], based on export bureau figures.
Looking forward to the leather industry - and it is export earnings - to grow, the Bangladeshi Government has long turned a blind eye towards the rampant pollution and terrible working conditions inside the tanneries, activists say.
"The only reason the Hazaribag tanneries are allowed to operate may be the export earnings," said Rezwana Hossain, an eco rights lawyer. "These tanneries are operating right in the middle of the city, in the middle of residential areas plus they are continuing to pollute the main river from the city, every year.
"If you appear in the environmental damage,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the killing from the Buriganga river, the pollution from the city's water supply, the public health costs, then these export earnings don't look so impressive."
The industry's export earnings could increase significantly in the next couple of years if Dhaka can capitalise about the "China effect", said Sayed Nasim Manzur, managing director of ApexAdelchi, a joint venture shoe manufacturer.
Brands like Jones Bootmaker and Macy's already source shoes in Bangladesh, and many others are likely to follow suit, he said.
Workers processing cow hides in a tannery in Dhaka. Every day, tanneries in Hazaribag district dump 22,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych],000 litres of toxic waste, including cancer-causing chromium, into the Buriganga - Dhaka's main river and a key water supply.
"But you cannot be prepared to export to the Eu if you are polluting like they are at Hazaribag," added Manzur,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], whose factories in Savar district have their own waste treatment plants,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], unlike the Hazaribag tanneries.
Successive Bangladeshi governments have promised to relocate the tanneries to Savar, north of Dhaka, and pledged to construct a central effluent treatment plant to avoid water pollution. The relocation also aims to make tanneries,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], many of which have been in Hazaribag because the 1970s,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], to setup purpose-built factories and improve safety standards for workers.
But progress has stalled,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and while the federal government maintains the move may happen soon,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], no exact date has been set and the infrastructure in the new Savar site has not yet been finished.
The delay hasn't deterred foreign buyers, who're flooding the existing tanneries with orders. Most of the raw hide tanned at Hazaribag is exported as semi-processed leather to shoe factories in Russia, China, Japan and Spain,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], where it is converted into shoes for that Western market.
Leather worker Sumon said the Salma tannery has become busier than ever before. "Workers haven't seen any of the benefits, though. The factory informs us buyers pay affordable prices for that leatherp; they say the tannery isn't making much profit," he said.
Sumon earns 6,000 taka (US$100 or RM310) a month for a 12-hour shift, 7 days a week, but says his main be worried about his job is its impact on the health of his family who live near to the tannery.
"The tanneries pollute water, and that we all use the water. We drink it, wash in it. It smells bad, also it makes the skin itch, but what can we do,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]," he explained. - AFP
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